Ten lessons my stepfather taught me

My step-father, Alan, is a fearless man. He married my mom, after all, who, while being the best woman on the planet, had baggage of the heaviest sort… children, two of ‘em. Not only did Alan marry into an instant family, but he married knowing that my mom wasn’t interested in having more children. For better or for worse, Alan didn’t only marry my mom: he married into a ready-made family, complete with its own set of complicated issues that were created long before he was even in the picture.

I’m not always sure Alan knows how beloved a parent he is. Below are just a few of the many reasons. Continue reading

Posted in Great General Posts | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Our hike to Tambomachay, an ancient ‘spa’ along the Inca Ceque System

To the Inca who developed them, ceques (which means line in one of Peru’s official languages, Quechua) were a series of 42 pathways radiating from Cusco on which were built hundreds of stone constructions. Because the Inca didn’t leave behind a written language, the purpose of ceques is up to some debate, but a good guess is that they indicated political boundaries and pilgrimage paths.

A few days ago, we went with our friends from the Mundo Antiguo Spanish School to hike to a few of the sites along some of the ceque pathways. The first that we visited, Tambomachay, is located 8 kilometers up from Cusco at 3,765 meters (12,352 feet) above sea level! We decided to take a cab up, up, up the winding road to this Inca ruin, and then walk the seven or eight miles back down, cutting our own way off the beaten path through farmland and the wilds, hitting up a mess of ceques along the way.

The cab dropped us off at the edge of the path to Tambomachay, where we purchased our Boleto Turistico for 130 soles/$46 (for the kid, 70 soles/$23), which gets us into a number of important Inca sites and museums in the Cusco area. Without this ticket, the cost for entrance into multiple sites would’ve been rather cost prohibitive, so it made sense for us to cough up the soles. Besides, as the ticket is good for only ten days, it really has forced us to make the most of our time, seeing a few interesting places we might’ve otherwise skipped. Continue reading

Posted in Amazing trips, Baths, Spas and Hammams, Peru, Spas | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

What does it REALLY mean to be a single mother who travels? [Or, in other words, my 'Top 10' list for how traveling as a single parent can suck]

Me, sans make-up, on the side of a mountain in Peru, in a dorky hat and wearing a dorky outfit. It doesn’t get any more “real” than this!

“You’re f@*king awesome,” a married girlfriend recently told me. “You prove that you don’t need a man, a house or security.” Convinced that my life was one of independence, freedom and adventure while hers was one of compromise, stagnancy and boredom, she went on to bemoan her failing marriage and mortgage. I mainly listened, although I believe I slipped in a mumbled, “the grass is always greener on the other side.”

It’s no secret that I’m not married, don’t work a normal 9-5, have my homebase in New York, and travel as much as I’m able. I’m viewed by many of my friends as a person who does what I want, when I want to do it. “You’re so lucky,” they tell my kid, who is alternatively educated and is my primary traveling partner.

I get innumerable emails from single parents (mostly moms) and recently separated parents who want to make the transition to homeschooling and/or travel. I give all the positive, ‘you-can-do-it’ advice I can muster. For the record, I mean every word of it. I absolutely believe a person can take charge of her (or his) life. Yet there’s always another side to the story…

I think it’s time to also share the other side of my situation; the dark side, if you will. Because make no mistake: my life isn’t all rainbows and unicorns. It’s really, really difficult, often lonely, and I sometimes wonder why the hell I’m doing what I’m doing. Here are some of my single parent travel realities that might surprise you. Continue reading

Posted in Great General Posts, Packing for a trip, insurance and more, Uncategorized, Why Travel?, Writing | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 13 Comments

Corpus Christi Festival in Cusco

One of our hosts, Norma, suggested we head to the cathedral today located on the Plaza de Armas here in Cusco to see the “festival of saints.” Coming from New York, home of the Gay Pride, Puerto Rican, Halloween and Saint Patrick’s Day parades, I didn’t expect much. Isn’t it nice to be proven wrong?

The festival of saints, otherwise known as ‘Corpus Christi’, is a Catholic celebration infused with Inca traditions during which thousands of people flood the Plaza de Armas to watch a procession of saints from the different churches in Cusco. Beginning 60 days after Easter, the festival is truly a sight to behold. Continue reading

Posted in Amazing trips, Peru | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

First Impressions of Cusco, Peru (Llamas, Quechua, Steep Streets and the Plaza de Armas)

Thankfully, my altitude sickness is subsiding, which means I’m better able to wander Cusco without feeling as though I’m about to vomit and pass out (in alternating order). Below are some of my first impressions of Cusco. Continue reading

Posted in Amazing trips, Peru | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Why we decided to get yellow fever vaccinations in Peru

Does this mosquito carry yellow fever? I’d rather not find out.

TO VACCINATE, OR NOT TO VACCINATE, THAT IS THE QUESTION…

Parents these days tend to fall into one of two camps: those who vaccinate their children; and those who don’t. I tend to fall somewhere in the middle. My daughter has received many vaccinations throughout her life, but with each shot, I do extensive research. Many doctors recommend a series of vaccinations before heading to Peru: typhoid; rabies; hepatitis… But all of those diseases can be treated using powerful medicines (or, in the case of rabies, an immediate and not-so-fun 30-day series of painful vaccinations). Not so with yellow fever. If you contract this nasty disease, you either: a) let it run its course; or b) you die.  Continue reading

Posted in Packing for a trip, insurance and more, Peru | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

A Trip to the Museo de la Coca

Museo de la Coca

The top items on my Cusco agenda today? Spanish class at Mundo Antigua Spanish School, then off to buy a big bag of coca. 

Yes, folks, COCA. Tengo mal de altura! Or in other words, as I wrote about in my last post, I have altitude sickness! (Are you impressed? My Spanish lessons are already paying off!). We knew just the place to go… The Museo de la Coca, to learn about the history, medicinal and spiritual practices of the coca leaf.

Nancy Felix, the proprietor, and Cusco guide, Ninoska Montúfor met us at the door with huge smiles. Ninoska escorted us inside, sat us down, and gave us a lesson about coca before we went off on our own. Thanks, Ninoska!

Continue reading

Posted in Amazing trips, Peru | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Beauty and Altitude Sickness at 11,200 Feet in Cusco

From Lima to Peru… The Andes!

Cusco wasn’t our first experience high up in the mountains. Last summer we visited various locations in Iceland and Switzerland, and pre-Anevay (hard to imagine!) I had visited the Rocky Mountains in Colorado. But Cusco, at 11,200 feet- much higher than anywhere else I had visited- literally took my breath away.

The flight from Lima was an almost transcendental experience. Feeling the climb, up, up, up into the magnificent display of Zeus’s white clouded playground, didn’t compare at all to what we saw once the clouds broke. The Andes, in all their glory, spread out until the horizon. My eyes could just barely make out switchbacked roads on the mountains directly below the plane, and occasionally a small town, but besides that, emptiness. Photos don’t do it justice.

The second we debarked in Cusco, we felt the altitude. The symptoms manifested differently for the two of us- Anevay was a little short of breath while a headache crept up on me, like a hangover after a three-day binge. Continue reading

Posted in Amazing trips, Peru | Tagged , , , , | 8 Comments

Conversation with Mark Adams, author of TURN RIGHT AT MACHU PICCHU

When Anevay and I first discussed visiting Machu Picchu, I scoured bookstores for books about this enigmatic Inca site. Guidebooks contained only the basics: how to get to the ruins; a brief history; and maps. I wanted more. I needed more. I was convinced that Hiram Bingham III, the explorer who “discovered” Machu Picchu at the beginning of the 20th Century and wrote the landmark book, Lost City of the Incasin the 1940′s, could provide me with what I needed. Yet while Bingham’s book contains a treasure-trove of historical information, many of the explorer’s theories about why Machu Picchu was built have been proven wrong. Fortunately for me, New York Times bestselling author and writer for travel and adventure magazines, Mark Adams, recently wrote Turn Right at Machu Picchua clever, informative and hilarious narrative that seamlessly weaves together the histories of Machu Picchu and Hiram Bingham III, as well and the story of Adam’s own adventure to retrace Bingham’s path to the ancient site.

I had the pleasure of catching up with Mark to discuss his book, Peru, writing, family, travel and his answer to the big question: WHAT THE HELL IS MACHU PICCHU?! Continue reading

Posted in Author Interviews, Conversation With a Traveling Family, Peru | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Conversation with a Traveling Family #5: Jenn Miller from The Edventure Project

Ezra, Hannah, Tony, Jenn, Gabe and Elisha Miller

If you’re a human who travels, chances are you’ve heard of the Millers, a family of six who have been on the open road since 2008. Anevay and I have had the pleasure of spending some time with the Millers off-Internet; we count them as dear friends. We first met a couple of years ago at their campsite as we were first considering alternative education and long-term travel, and found the entire gang- Jenn, Tony, Hannah, Gabe, Elisha and Ezra- remarkable people. Since then, Anevay and I have had the pleasure of hosting the Millers here in New York. We count on them for providing us with sound travel/education information, music, and a lot of happiness. We hope to see them again soon.

Recently, it crossed my mind that I hadn’t yet interviewed the Millers as part of a running Break Out of Bushwick series called Conversation with a Traveling Family. Each interview profiles the experiences of a long-term traveling family, each with varying views about alternative education, health, politics and life. I emailed Jenn, who, currently stationed in New Zealand, cordially agreed to having me pick her brain. The result is  spectacular.

Expect nothing less than conversations about polygamy and how to brainwash kids, an anecdote about jumping out of a cake at a bachelor party, and a rhyme about travel that your family can recite through the ages around the campfire (Beowulf, eat your heart out!). Oh, and if that’s not enough, you might also read some thought-provoking thoughts about finding “home,” the key to a lasting marriage, homeschooling, and even the polarizing ‘I’ word… Immunizations! Continue reading

Posted in Conversation With a Traveling Family, Packing for a trip, insurance and more | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments